When there’s a new miracle molecule on the market how do you tell your AHAs from your peptides? When everyone keeps talking about the best ingredients and saying that you should have them in your beauty kit, but you are totally lost with the buzzwords. What do these ingredients actually do and where would you find them? We help you to break through the science speak so you can choose the best skincare without being confused. Soon you will be a pro in scientific skincare.
Peptides
What is it?
Peptides are portions of proteins, which are long (or sometimes short) chains of amino acids. In the body, peptides regulate the activity of many systems by interacting with target cells. They act as cell messengers, sending signals like ‘collagen is breaking down, so please make more’ to your fibroblast cells.
You need it if…
If you are outdoors or exercise a lot, skin can look a little weather beaten. To put the spring back in skin, peptides work wonders to give added elasticity.
Relax Hydrating Peptide Serum: R405, Nourish Skincare
Antioxidants
What is it?
Vitamin C and E are the most common antioxidants found in skincare. Antioxidants are simply ingredient that reduces free-radical damage to the skin. Free radicals are unstable molecules that are searching for their missing electrons and causing untold havoc along their way. Antioxidants fill those electron needs without becoming free radicals themselves.
You need it if…
You’re a city dweller, sun worshipper or stress-head. So pretty much everyone needs these!
Biolumin-C Serum Brightening Vitamin C Serum: R1 495, Dermalogica
Retinoids
What is it?
This is the catchall phrase used to describe all vitamin A derivatives used in skin care. Retinol is a skin normaliser that balances sebum (oil) production and thickens the epidermis, while also compacting the surface of the skin to make it smoother.
You need it if…
You expose your skin to the sun, you are prone to blemishes or have the beginnings of fine lines.
Vitamin A Serum: R510, Dr Gobac
AHA/BHA
What is it?
Organic Acid. Probably the last thing you would guess to put on your skin, But AHAs (Alpha-Hydroxy Acid) and BHAs (Beta-Hydroxy Acids) aren’t as scary as they sound. They come from fruit, trees, nuts, milk, sugars and they work wonders for the skin. Salicylic, glycolic and lactic acids are all part of the AHA/BHA family. They are both exfoliants that dissolve the substances that bond dead cells together.
You need it if…
AHAs work on the top layer of the skin, so this ideal for someone who is looking to brighten a dull complexion. BHAs on the other hand penetrate deeper and can work for someone that is prone to spots, because it unclogs pores.
Enlighten Pigment Gel: R489, NeoStrata
Hyaluronic Acid
What is it?
The gel-like substance is what is naturally found in skin and works as the body’s own moisturiser. It retains over 1000 times its weight in water! Hyaluronic Acid is what is found in most filler, but you don’t need to resort to needles to get the full benefit of this molecule. It is a brilliant moisturiser when applied topically too.
You need it if…
Gravity is setting in. Sagging often starts around the jaw and there’s a lot of volume loss across the cheek.
Corrective Hydrating HA Plus: R615, Lamelle
Coenzyme Q10
What is it?
This is a compound that is made in the body and used by cells to produce energy that they need to grow and stay healthy.
You need it if…
Your skin is rough, uneven or lacklustre. This is often a sign that you’re lacking in it. Also, if you are a vegetarian – it is present in most fish and meats.
Q10 Pore Refining Day Cream: R170, Nivea
Rhamnose
What is it?
Simply put, rhamnose is a sugar that thickens the skin by fighting off the molecules that break down collegen.
You need it if…
You’re battling fine lines and wrinkles. Skin is increasingly fragile and weak and is on its way to becoming crepey.
Liftactiv Eyes: R460, Vichy
Collagen
This protein makes up 80 percent of the skin and its fibers give skin its firmness and strength. Collagen is not only produced more slowly, but breaks down quicker over time as we age, but certain ingredients, such as retinol and peptides (including Matrixyl), can stimulate new collagen production.
You need it if…
Laugh lines and dreaded crow’s feet start making their appearance.
Collagen Wrinkle De-Crease Re-Plumping Night Cream: R209.99, L’Oréal Paris
The post Say What? Skincare Buzzwords Don’t Need To Be Confusing appeared first on People Magazine.